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Cutting mat selection -what to look for when selecting a quality cutting mat:
Cutting mat questions:
Is the cutting mat self healing?
Cutting mats that are self healing are preferable, but some thick single ply cutting mats work well for extra large mats.
What is the thickness of the cutting mat? You want a cutting mat that is 3mm or thicker. Thinner cutting mats are not as durable. The thinner cutting mats have more of a plastic feel to them, and most are not a suitable mat to cut with using a straight blade knife. The mats thinner than 3mm can be cut through with a straight blade.
How many plies of material is the cutting mat made of, and how thick are each of the cutting mats plies? Look for cutting mats that are at least 3 ply’s thick. The outer plies of the cutting mat should not be too thin, and the inner ply of the mat should be thick. A thick inner cutting mat ply helps prevent mat cut through and prolongs the life of cutting blades.
What is the cutting mat surface texture and is there a glare? A cutting mat should have a non glare surface. A reflective mat surface makes it harder to see the material being cut. The cutting mat surface texture should be a medium tooth. Too smooth a cutting mat surface, and the material being cut may slip. Too textured cutting mat surface will make straight cuts difficult.
What type of grid does the cutting mat have? Look for a cutting mat that is fully graduated (numbered) on all 4 sides of the mat. If the cutting mat has hash marks the hashes should extend past the boarder of the cutting mat grid.
What type of cutting tools is going to be used on the mat? Choose a cutting mat that can be used with both a rotary knife and a straight blade hobby knife. The 2mm mats and thinner do not hold up well with a straight blade knife. The mats are too thin.
We offer a complete selection of cutting mats. All are mats are suitable for cutting on using straight knives or rotary cutting knives. There are two basic choices we offer in cutting mats Self Healing multi ply mats available up to 4 X 8 foot in size and our large cutting mats single ply extra thick up to 6 X 12 foot in size. Click here to see our complete selection of cutting mats – Cutting Mats Self-healing and Cutting Mats Large

Benefits and Uses of Plier Clamps
Regardless of what industry one is working in, there are just some things that our fingers cannot grasp and our strength is just too weak to get the job done. Sometimes we need help of tools such as plier clamps to get a firm, strong grip on materials. Plier clamps, also known as squeeze action clamps, manual toggle clamps, or portable clamps, are used to firmly grasp objects. Common uses of plier clamps include:

Welding

Bending

Compressing

Plier clamps from Lapeer Manufacturing are offered in a variety of depths, jaw openings, or spindle options. All plier clamps have the option of being equipped with an unlocking lever. Which allows the clamp to be release easily with just one hand.

Uses of Plier Clamps and Why choose plier clamps?

The versatility of using plier clamps is one of their key benefits. While grasping the handle you can easily maneuver the object being held as if you were holding in your own hand. This allows for precisions while welding, bending, or compressing objects. No need to worry about plier clamps losing their grip, Lapeer Manufacturing’s plier clamps are the best at providing a secure grip until handles are pulled apart or the unlocking lever is released.

Lapeer Manufacturing offers plier clamps superior to other brands. Their ability to hand high heat due to their forged steel alloy clamps attracts many, as well as their superior strength. With a large selection of sizes, plier clamps are offered for any application, holding a max capacity of up to 2400 lbs.

Varients of plier clamps available at Lapeer Manufacturing include, but are not limited to:

Dual spindle pliers

Drop jaw dual spindle pliers

Drop jaw plier clamps

Extended plier clamps

Drop jaw extended plier clamps

Handsaws Can Still Come In Handy
Power saws have become standard equipment for many active do-it-yourselfers, but most can still make good use of a handsaw or two. For example, I own eight different types of power saws, but I still reach for a handsaw for many sawing jobs.

Handsaws are especially useful for those who do an occasional home-repair or woodworking project but have little tool-storage space.

Fortunately, handsaw-makers haven`t let the proliferation of power saws keep them from improving their products. One of the newer designs has oversize teeth that cut on both the forward and reverse strokes, resulting in faster cutting than most saws, which generally cut only on forward strokes.

One fast-cut saw, the Stanley Short Cut, is shaped like a standard saw but is only 18 inches long, making it easy to fit into a toolbox or hang in a tight space. The Short Cut leaves a fairly rough edge, and is best as a utility saw rather than for fine-finish work. I use mine frequently for rough cutoff work and pruning (it gets into places where a bow saw can`t be used). The Short Cut has a specially shaped handle and straight blade back that lets it be used for marking accurate 90-degree and 45-degree cutting lines. Short Cuts sell for about $15 each at many home centers and tool outlets.

Another version of a fast-cut saw, the Wood Eater, is made by Vermont American. Wood Eaters are available in 15-inch (about $10) and 26-inch (about $18) lengths. Both of these Vermont American saws are listed in the new Sears tool catalogue.

Standard handsaws are made with two basic tooth designs – crosscut and rip – and are generally 26 inches long.

Crosscut saws have more tooth points per inch, generally seven to 12, and are designed primarily to cut across grain (cutting to length). The more points per inch, the smoother and slower the saw will cut. Ripsaws usually have fewer teeth, often 5 1/2 per inch, and are designed to cut with the grain of wood (cutting strips).

Most do-it-yourselfers need only one standard handsaw, and a crosscut is the best choice for all-round work since it can be used for crosscutting or ripping. It is extremely difficult to cross-cut well with a ripsaw. A 10-point crosscut gives a relatively smooth cut that will be satisfactory for many projects. For fine-finish work, additional smoothing of cuts by sanding or planing will be needed.

A first-rate crosscut saw can be bought for less than $20.

For safe and accurate hand-sawing, the wood to be cut must be placed on a firm, flat surface at a comfortable sawing height and be firmly held in that position. The best cutting height varies with individuals, but 24 to 30 inches is good for most people.

A work table with built-in clamps, such as Black & Decker`s Workmate, is ideal for hand-sawing. However, many a do-it-yourselfer uses a regular sawhorse or bench and holds the wood with the free hand or a hand and a knee. Make a cutting line on the wood with a pencil, using a try square, combination square or other straight edge as a guide. Saw on the outside of the line.

Hand Drill
A hand drill is a manual tool that converts and amplifies circular motion of the crank into circular motion of a drill chuck. Though it has been replaced in most applications by power drills, the hand drill is used by many woodworkers.

The hand drill consists of a cranking handle that turns pinion gears on the main shaft. A chuck at the end of the shaft holds a drill bit. The opposite end of the shaft has a second handle that is held stationary while the chuck turns. The drill bit is selected to cut a hole of a specific width, such as 3/8 inch; the size typically is inscribed on the bit’s shaft.

How to Safely Use a Hand Drill

To safely use a hand drill, loosen the chuck and insert the appropriate drill bit, then tighten the chuck. Most hand drills require a special tool to firmly tighten the chuck. Place the bit’s tip where you want to cut a hole, making sure the bit is at the same angle as the desired hole. Turn the cranking handle to rotate the bit and drill the hole. With smaller drill bits, be careful not to apply excess pressure on the handle or the bit may bend or break.

How to Maintain a Hand Drill

Hand drills require little maintenance, but can be damaged by improper use, such as using the wrong drill bit or placing excess pressure on the tool. For optimum efficiency, periodically place a drop of light oil on the crank pinions and in the chuck gear.

How Many Different Types Of Tweezers Do You Have In Your Bathroom Drawer?
Do you know what each type of tweezers you own was made for? When it comes to tweezers, you’re probably most familiar with the eyebrow shaping type. But there are actually different types of tweezers all created for different tasks. You shouldn’t be using the same tweezers to remove a splinter as you do to sculpt your brows.

A good tweezer set only needs three types to start: Slanted, curved, and precision. Each one is designed to do a different job. Regine tweezers create all three with expert precision and craftsmanship. Read on to see why these three types are essential for every household and what they’re used for.

These are the type you probably use the most. Cosmetic tweezers can be used for personal grooming tasks like tweezing your brows or even pulling out that stray chin hair you get every now and then (it happens to all of us!).

These tweezers usually have a slanted tip to better work with the natural contours of the face. At Regine, we’ve meticulously studied tweezers for three generations and found that a 25-degree angle tip is perfect for grooming.

With the slant, you can use the perfectly aligned tips for more precise tweezing. We temper our steel two times over to harden the metal and make sure our tweezers never wear out and never dull. The interior of our tweezer’s tips is a hand-etched tip that helps you easily grip and remove the hair. With tips this precise, you’ll grab the one hair you want to remove on the first try, every time. If you want to tweeze a lot of hairs at once, use the flat part of the slant instead of the pointy tip.

Are you someone who loves wearing false lashes? Have you ever been frustrated trying to pick up your lashes with your fingers or with non-curved tweezers? If so, then you need a pair of curved or oblique tipped tweezers. This type of tweezer is made for separating lashes and precise lash application, making the false lash process pleasant rather than frustrating.

With these tweezers, you’ll be able to quickly and easily pick up each eyelash and place it onto your eyelid with great precision. Because of their curve, you won’t need to maneuver your hand awkwardly to put the lashes on. But remember that these tweezers are sharp! You’ll want to be careful with them while you’re working around your eye.

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